Keeway Focus factory error???
I
do not know if this is a type fault, but it was annoying a bit of
a bug in the carburettor.
The trouble was that he did not want
to start the engine cold (50cm3 focus).
I took it to the repair
shop and replaced the automatic choke, but the error was later
reset
It occurred. approx. I had to squeeze the carburettor 5x
to find out the cause of the problem.
The automatic choke did
not reach gasoline (a small fuel was injected into the
engine).
Under the automatic choke there is a long brass tube
through which the vacuum absorbs gasoline,
And on top of it
there are 4 small (visibly visible) boreholes that breathe air
through (see below).
In this case it is too much, so you can
not take the gas from the hole next to the float !!!
It's
ridiculously simple to fix the problem: one or two of the 4 holes
(preferably from the bottom) must be soldered
(Soldering tin
used in plain electronics), so the suction power increases and the
fuel is enough to fuel
(When the automatic chopper is closed,
there is no running fuel, so it is not a tragedy if we have sold
more holes than we needed).
Anyone who is struggling with
similar problems will also look into this possibility.
-Excellent
now is a very reliable engine :).
-To disassemble, only a 10-piece dog knob and a star screwdriver are required.
With the socket wrench, the seat and luggage bracket bolts (4pcs) can be worn out, the star sprocket must be attached to the carburettor.
First we have access to the gas bowden (2 screws fix the cover), then the automatic choke 2 bolts follow,
3 tires go to the carburettor:
The upper spring, outside the fuel pipe, is a little downstream of the vacuum tube (it opens the diaphragm valve under the gasoline tank),
And the thin pipe facing the direction of travel is carrying the oil (it fits on the copper tube shown above).
These tubes are held by hand compressible spring clamps.
Then loosen the air filter spring clip to descend from the rubber rim and then on the rubber suction side facing the engine
Loosen the star screw on the metal clamp. So we can remove the carburettor.
Only remove the float housing from the bottom of the carburetor by loosening the 4 sprockets (preferably vertically, to avoid leakage
Gasoline in it).
If we twist the starbars:
The 4s long is for the floating house,
2 medium for the gas-bowden section,
2 short in the automatic choke.
The automatic choke operation is short:
- It has a disc-shaped resistance (this acts as a heating) that warms a liquid in a copper tank (tube)
Which is usually waxy or alcoholic, it removes a rubber membrane that pulls a metal stump against a spring, this is with the brass needle valve with a rubber flange seal.
When the liquid warms up, it expands and moves the valve to close the choke vacuum pipe (the brass pipe below the picture).
The voltage is received from a coil from the side of the generator, which outputs the power proportional to the rotation of the motor,
So at higher speeds the heating resistor will heat up faster and the automatic choke will be locked faster.
- Consequently, it does not use the motor temperature to activate the choke, but also the temperature of the resistor and the thermal switch.
An image of the carburetor:
Other minor errors:
The gears of the starter and the kicker arm dry over each other. Over time, the rubber drive from the drive belt is embedded between the teeth and
It's harder to go with the startup, the kicker's arm blend, and I got ripped and did not go out ...
To prevent these problems, it is advisable to use the graphite machine grease (such as grease that melts at high temperatures) to the gears and the moving parts of the kicker.
So do not overdo the lubrication so that a grease can not get loose and possibly get caught on the belt (I think it will be fat gum rather than rubber greasy ...).
-There are some pictures to help:
The starter gears are: (it is worth insisting that the starter will not kill the battery with 20-30 AMs, only 5-15!)
Parts
of the starter arm:
Apart
from these small mistakes, only one thing was disturbed: the plastic
casing was jerked at idle.
After
a long search, I realized that the right side hydraulic brake arm oil
side came to the plastic casing at the cutout.
This
can be eliminated with a self-adhesive sponge, rubber or any elastic
material (this is not a very disturbing noise but I resonated at
idle).
-2007.05.18.
Repair Rust Exhaust:
Again here is the spring and the yearly maintenance time. Now only the exhaust was to be sanded and repainted because it started to eat rust.
Anyway, it is worth checking the whole vehicle every 2-3 years, because it is still easy to repair the rusty spots that begin!
The battery was discharged and charged in winter, so it went unharmed.
So he looked like an under star garage and regular rainfall:
After grinding and painting:
After replacing and replacing the gear, he really dumped the look of the scooter :)
Paint spray is a heat resistant stove painted up to 700C, which burns on the surface when used for the first time (no moisture can occur).
The producers made a
repugnant mistake when the chrome-plated outer cover was not picked
up by a stainless steel screwdriver ...
Repair
Rust Exhaust:
One more frustrating mistake should be mentioned:
The
oil spout of the brake lever is preferable to the brake fluid.
Unfortunately, this needs to be replaced, perhaps the more skilled ones can make a more durable window from glass.
2008.04.02
Since then, I have sold the scooter, but I leave this article on my side because it can come in handy for others :).