Suzuki Swift 2005-2010 tow bar equipment
If your dear reader browses my website, you can see that I'm in the middle (or rather at the beginning) of an adobe house renovation.
As a result, I thought that a tow hook would be needed if I wanted to bring smaller or bigger things from the store.
I mean something that does not have much to do in the cabin (crown, cement, lime, shutter).
So, something that needs to be cleaned and the passenger compartment can be damaged.
I am reluctant to entrust electrical wiring to a workshop because you either ask for a lot of work, either clutching it, and there will not be much thanks either.
Because I do not like the cables to be out of the luminaires (outside, in a humid environment), so I prefer to fix it myself.
My other problem is that I do not want to load more than a lot of light bulbs, so I'm going to need to build a sealing electronics,
As well as index indexes are mandatory. The technical would soon expire, so using the Easter holiday I made my own isolating electronics and electrical wiring.
The circuit:
The 2pcs fuse must be in the event of a short circuit, only one side will go out of the light. There is also a 20A fuse on the incoming cable that is connected to the power window (it will never be overloaded taking into account the coincidence).
The car breaks up like this:
With mounted tow bar:
I used the arrow cable factory cable to introduce the trailer cable.
Then it was wound through insulating tape.
The
fitting of the towing hook was not too easy because the manufacturer
did not guarantee that it was made for this type,
but the bumper
could not be fitted properly ...
The fog lamp was unfortunately on its way, so it had to go to the back (no wake the fog light).
After cuting:
While drilling: (From ebay you can buy a stepping drill with a Titanium coating at a good price. Perfect for drilling a metal plate).
My other problem was the length of the spacers ... It could have been 5mm longer, because the floor plate slightly bent while pulling the screws.
Of course, the towing hitch is still stable because it comes down to the closed profile at the bottom of the chassis, but it could have been more beautiful ...
I rusted the rust spots with rust-proof paint. (I do not intentionally write the name of the manufacturer, but if it does, then maybe :)).
Unfortunately, the old Swifts tend to get bogged down here ...
I removed the control signals from the connector behind the lamps. I unplugged the plugs of the factory plug, unplugged the wire and replaced it.
The
alert is also ready:
Of course, a connector will be added to see if it needs to be disassembled once.
The tell-tale connector with a diode line (this detects whether the trailer is plugged into the car and only outputs the current, the two wires and the index indicator):
Unfortunately, the factory cable was too short to hide the electronics, so it had to be ... One with a shrink the soldered joints, then the whole was insulated.
The electronics are boxed, even without cover, cut out of the heat sink to fit.
Otherwise, it does not take too much cooling because if we look at the brake light, which is 2x21Watt, it's only 3.5Amper to 12Volt.
The FET transistors used can withstand 23A as well :). Out of oversize, there has never been a problem.
Anyway, I tried a whole 65Watt bulb and did not sweat it ...
I almost forget:
The standard wiring of the trailer is as follows (source:www.vonohorog.hu) :
1: Index left
2: spare or fog lamp, possibly backlight
3: Grounding (Common 0V)
4: Index right
5: Position indicator right
6: Brake light
7: Position indicator left
The
connetcor is in back view!