chillies and a splash of soy sauce) with fresh fish that we had caught right there on the boat. We then began to head back and call it a day,
marciano, as no one thought they’d risk ruining their expensive clothing in a fist fight (perhaps not realizing that’s not much of a concern when it’s stolen). Image via Football Casuals
History has come to know this group as “Casuals” partly in thanks to PhilThornton’s book Casuals: Football Fighting & Fashion — one of the earliest studies of the phenomenon That said as mentioned earlier Ian Hough ties the fad back to the “Perry Boy” gangs of 1970s Manchester According to Hough the “Casual” tag seems to have been attached by various subcultural historians writing after the fact: “We never called it anything and the only word we had for it was ‘boys’ It was the same in a few places or else they called themselves ‘dressers’ or ‘trendies’… Not many writers have accurately depicted the emergence of that ‘nameless thing’ Some of them have exaggerated when it happened but only with regards to the football Its true origins go way back to the 1950s and ’60s to beatniks and mods and on to soul boys Perries and finally the sportswear crowd that caught on across Britain” As the look spread across the British Isles it started incorporating homegrown brands like Pringle of Scotland Fred Perry and Lyle & Scott into its wardrobe as well which probably had something to do with the scarcity of European away trips at the time This was an era when UEFA’s two competitions — the European Cup and the Cup Winners Cup — only accepted one entrant from each nation thereby restricting the number of English firms (gangs of supporters) able to enjoy a European “shopping trip” to just two
But the Casual phenomenon wasn’t merely about aesthetics or evading the all-seeing eye of the law: it was territorial and tribal spawned out of a need to assert yourself over people who looked very similar to you but just happened to support a different team More often than not this was about style and violence Smashing up the opposition’s favorite pub simply wasn’t good enough; you had to look sharp doing it as well Fashion journalist and QPR fan Robert Elms illustrates this in his style memoir The Way We Wore when recalling an away trip to Coventry City in the 1980s: “Some of Coventry City’s top boys were sporting Fila which had been the business but had gone out of fashion in London at least a month before Instead of launching ourselves at them we were lambasting them for sartorial tardiness As it dawned on them they’d been outdone in the style stakes you could see the will for the contest wane They’d been beaten and they knew it” Like all trends the look evolved over time As the ’80s bled into the ’90s brands like Burberry Aquascutum Prada Armani Ralph Lauren Henri Lloyd Paul & Shark the aforementioned Stone Island and its sister brand CP Company came to dominate the terraces Yetthis shift from sports and leisurewear to sailing apparel wasn’t so much a style decision as it was sheer practicality While the likes of Fila and Tacchini are perfect for the sun-kissed courts of glitzy Riviera tennis clubs the rain-splattered wind-battered winter English football terraces demand something a little more robust
As longtime Chelsea supporter and memoir writer Mark Worrall writes on the CFC blog: “The only trouble with the majority of these garments was the fact that despite their punitive cost they tended to be flimsily assembled… There was a definite gap in the market for clothes that were equally stylish but slightly more hardwearing and able to cope with the vagaries of our eccentric climate” It’s hard to nail down exactly when this shift occurred but writing in Maxim several years ago editor and journalist Anthony Teasdale points to the 1992 European Championships in Sweden as Stone Island’s particular watershed moment: “up until 1992 the brand was still something of a secret but England fans descended on a clothing outlet in Stockholm called Genius which just happened to be crammed with Stone Island The supporters did what British fans have been doing since the 1970s and promptly looted it” This account is clearly backed up by this image of a hooded figure wandering through the fracas in a bright yellow Stoney jacket as England fans smashed up Malm in the aftermath of their elimination from the contest It’s not clear why exactly Stone Island became the essential hooligan staple in the years that followed butit likely has something to do with the prominence of the compass branding on the sleeve which was instantly visible to anyone the wearercame across? the police? Gioli ventures upstairs where he is surrounded by classic wooden hat blocks that serve to create the final shape of a hat’s crown after much steaming and pressing by hand. In the 1950s,
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