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Part of the problem is that Bordain was the first to stake his claim to the chef-as-rogue title. All those who follow suffer by comparison because Anthony is so Bordain. He’s created a field unto himself,
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But Lucarelli’s revelations don’t resonate simply because his stories are exactly the ones you expect. This is well-trod ground. In nonfiction, a much better book is Gabrielle Hamilton’s Blood, Bones and Butter. In fiction, you might want to pick up Stephanie Danler’s Sweetbitter,
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It’s not that Lucarelli fails as writer. He can hold his own as he shows in this scene after a particularly hectic night.
“I was soaked to the skin. My uniform was spattered with sauce and starch from the pasta water. My side towel was nowhere to be seen, my hands were red and sweaty, and in the kitchen, it looked like a huge arancini kamikaze had blown itself up. And we were the victims.”
Nice. And sometimes,
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