It is not so long - perhaps 30 years - since Lebanon was a destination to which no-one with any common sense would have ventured without good cause. It was a civil-war-torn hell-hole, a regular tattered house guest stumbling onto the evening news bulletins - an emblem of destruction whose capital,cheap retro jordans, Beirut, had become a byword for carnage and conflagration.


Fast forward three decades and this country on the edge of the Mediterranean is distinctly more appealing as a holiday possibility. There are caveats to going there, certainly (see below), and its location very close to some of the Middle East's thornier problems make it a place to which, even now, only more intrepid travellers are likely to dash.


But as it celebrates its Independence Day (today, November 22),http://www.frbiz.com/products/j-37177487/ipad_cover_cgi_005.htmlcheapjordanshoesfreeshipping.com/bolg, here are a few facts about the "Paris of the East".

1. It used to be French


Paris of the East? Where does that come from? Well, it's a paeon of praise that has occasionally been applied to Lebanon - and Beirut in particular - over the last 60 or so years. In particular, it applies to the gilded pre-war Sixties in the country, when its capital was viewed as an alternative to the Cote d'Azur by the jet-set crowd.


But the description also tacitly acknowledges the fact that Lebanon was once under French control. Between 1920 and 1943,http://www.mzjy-edu.com/wygkcn_GuestBook.aspcheapjordanshoesfreeshipping.com/bolg, to be precise. Today's Independence Day is pinned to the latter year, when Gallic rule over the country - which had been imposed in the wake of the First World War and the collapse of the Ottoman Empire - was deemed to have been thrown off. There would be French machinations in the country for another three years,cheap jordan shoes, but in terms of the existence of the modern Lebanon, 1943 is the key line in the sand.


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2. Gallic ghosts linger




The French "mandate" over Lebanon may have lasted for "just" 23 years, but it left its imprint on the capital. Much of the east side of central Lebanon still dreams, to an extent, of Paris. The names have an Arabic tinge, but the districts of Gemayzeh and Accrafieh have plenty in common with the likes of the Marais and Saint-Germain-des-Pres. Peer more closely at the map, and the comparison becomes more obvious. Rue Gouraud in Gemayzeh is alive with small galleries and arty finesse. Rue Monot, which snakes up the hill in Accrafieh, has cafes and restaurants which would not seem out of place in Montmartre. They joy is that, unlike in Montmartre, you won't be assailed by hawkers selling cheap plastic models of the Sacre Coeur.

3. There is a fug of smoke over the streets


France, it is fair to say, likes a cigarette. The Middle East, it is even more reasonable to comment, also loves its tobacco products. So it probably shouldn't be a surprise to find out that, according to World Health Organisation figures, Lebanon is the portion...gest appetite for smoking. Only Montenegro and Belarus light up more often. A cloud of freedom or a reason to avoid the country? Please delete as appropriate.


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4. The FCO is OK with Lebanon. Mostly


This wasn't always the case. Britain's Foreign and Commonwealth Office has expanded and contracted its advice on travel to Lebanon in recent years, but the last change of stance (in October) opened up regions which had effectively been off-limits to UK travellers for much of this decade. As it stands, the western and central segments of the country have been declared as safe to visit - although there are asterisks in place above certain parts of Beirut, and areas along the eastern frontier. For the latest FCO position, you should click round about here.

5. The neighbours can be noisy


The prime source of FCO concern over travel to Lebanon is that the country's relationship with its nearest,Kicksokok.com, if not exactly dearest, can be somewhat fractious. In short, Syria, whose ongoing issues need little discussion, lies directly to the north and east, while Israel - with whom Lebanon fought a brief war as recently as 2006 - lies to the south.


This helps to explain the FCO's do-not-go warnings regarding the border zones, but is unlikely to impinge on any realistic pre-planned itinerary. Aside from Baalbek (see number 7, below), the majority of the Lebanese landmarks any visitor is likely to wish to see are well within the safe areas.


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6. It is the second smallest country in the Middle East


Or the third smallest, if you include Palestine. To be specific, Lebanon is bigger than Bahrain, and smaller - at 4,036 square miles - than every other country in the region. It would fit into the Middle East's biggest state, Saudi Arabia, some 206 times. If you extend this idea to the rest of the continent, Lebanon is also the fifth most diminutive country in Asia - only the Maldives, Singapore, Brunei and Bahrain can claim less landmass. In other words, it isn't a super-sized state in any sense. You could feasibly see all of it in one week.

7. It has the greatest fragment of Ancient Rome outside Rome


Really? That's quite the grand statement. Pompeii, Leptis Magna in Libya, the colossal amphitheatre at El Djem in Tunisia, the scattered remains of Palmyra in Syria - all could plausibly lay claim to this title. But there is something special about Baalbek. The modern town which bears the name is practically synonymous with the Roman structures at its heart. Especially the colossal Temple of Bacchus, a second century (AD) marvel which would bear comparison to the Parthenon in Athens were it a) not a legacy of an entirely different ancient civilisation and b) in rather better condition. The one (considerable) problem is that the ruins are currently within the FCO's no-go zone on the eastern border - but it is worth keeping an eye on the web page (and fingers crossed) that this might change. Baalbek is certainly more likely to return to the mainstream travel fray,cheap air jordans, in the immediate future, than Palmyra or Leptis Magna.









Baalbek

Credit: GETTY






8. It makes wonderful wine




The road to Baalbek - which is, partially, at least, in the FCO's good books - is framed by vineyards. Wine has been produced here for some six millennia - the Romans, ever keen to put the grape to party-starting use, were well aware that the Bekaa Valley (which runs up the centre of Lebanon) was perfect terrain for viticulture. This is still true in 2017. Chateau Ksara (in Ksara; chateauksara.com), arguably Lebanon's foremost wine purveyor, is one of several producers based in the valley. It opens its doors to the public for tours and tastings.









The Bekaa Valley

Credit: AP/HUSSEIN MALLA






9. The Romans were not the only ancient residents


By the time the Romans stomped their boots and sandals across Lebanon, the country had already been a seat of civilisation for a fair old time. The proof of this particular historical pudding is Byblos, a city which sits some 20 miles north of Beirut, up the Mediterranean coast. It was here that the Phoenicians, the ancient people whose influence spread right across north Africa at one point, sprang into life in the 15th century BC (or thereabouts). It can claim to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited spots on the planet - estimates suggest its beginnings could have been as early as 8800BC. Of course, little remains of this distant era, but an air of yesteryear envelops the heart of town - not least via its 12th century Crusader castle, in whose walls cannon balls are still embedded.









Byblos

Credit: ? 2013 f8grapher/f8grapher






10. You can barely move for ancient sites


As well as Baalbek and Byblos, Lebanon has Tyre (also known as Sour), which sits close to the Israeli border - a pretty port whose Roman hippodrome has been on the Unesco World Heritage list since 1979. Despite its proximity to Lebanon's southern neighbour, the city is currently within the FCO's safe travel zone, and can be reached via a day trip from Beirut (it lies 50 miles from the capital). Equally intriguing Sidon (Saida) is, alas, something of a black-spot as far as the FCO is concerned (due to the presence of refugee camps). But there is ancient heritage in Beirut too - where the National Museum (beirutnationalmuseum.com) is as sublime an archaeological treasure trove as anything found in Cairo, Paris, Berlin or London.









Tyre's Roman ruins are Unesco-listed

Credit: Richard Yoshida - Fotolia






11. You can't really avoid Beirut's concrete phantom


The Lebanese Civil War - the inferno which devoured the country between 1975 and 1990, and made household names of British hostages Terry Waite and John McCarthy - is far less visible on the face of Beirut than it used to be. Reconstruction work and new buildings have slowly erased (some of) the damage.


But one tombstone is still very apparent. The Holiday Inn - on Rue Omar Daouk, in the Minet-el-Hosn district - was a grand new hotel when it rolled out the red carpet in 1974. But it would quickly become a symbol of the conflict, snipers taking over its corridors, rooftop and vantage points, artillery explosions eating into its masonry. Half a century on, it is a ghost - still standing thanks to an ongoing dispute between the two companies which own is as to what, if anything, they can do with this enormous wreck of a building. It is not a landmark which you would necessarily seek out as a point of pilgrimage, but it casts a shadow over the city which can be hard to escape.

12. There are deluxe hotels galore


One of the reasons for the old Holiday Inn's ongoing notoriety is that it stands so close to a number of its successors. Specifically, it towers above the Phoenicia Hotel, a fabulous five-star palace (phoeniciabeirut.com) with double rooms from ?224 per night. This, rather than the Holiday Inn, is representative of accommodation in the Beirut of 2017. As is Le Gray, a similarly sumptuous retreat (campbellgrayhotels.com/le-gray-beirut) with doubles for ?254,jordan shoes.

13. Beirut has one of the Mediterranean's best beaches


If uber-upmarket rooms and suites are not enough to convince you that Beirut is a sophisticated seafront city, then Ramlet al-Baida just might. The city's prime beach waits on the west side of the centre, just south of the busy districts of Hamra and Ras-Beirut. Its sands and rolling waves are a reminder that, just like Cannes, St Tropez, Barcelona, and Valencia, Beirut is a Mediterranean city. On a hot day,cheap jordans for sale, it is as beautiful as any of its "rivals".

14. Lebanon loves a bank holiday




If Ramlet al-Baida is busy on the afternoon you attempt to top up your tan, it might be because the city has taken the day off. There's a good chance of this. Lebanon is the planet'... comes to public holidays. It takes 16 days a year - yes,cheap wholesale jordans, 16 - out of the office. Only India and Colombia - 18 days - play official truant more often.


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15. You can book a tour of the country


The FCO's loosening of its restrictions on travel to Lebanon has not yet translated into a surge in package options. Tour operators you might ordinarily expect to be active in the country are yet to re-embrace it - the likes of Steppes Travel (steppestravel.com/middle-east), Cox & Kings (coxandkings.co.uk/destinations/middle-east/lebanon) and Explore (explore.co.uk/destinations/middle-east/lebanon) are still only offering warm words and attractive images in lieu of bookable itineraries.


That said, Corinthian Travel (020 3583 6089; corinthiantravel.co.uk/destination/lebanon-holidays) offers a range of trips - including an eight-day "Classic Lebanon" jaunt which calls at Tyre and Byblos as well as Beirut - from ?2285 per person (not including flights). Which is a start.


Destination Lebanon (destinationlebanon.gov.lb), meanwhile, provides further details and information.





In the wake of the Eastbourne fire, we are republishing Joan's piece about piers


Things happen on these pages. Last time I wrote about my enthusiasm for Britain’s seaside piers, I was invited to become a patron of the National Piers Society – and promptly did so. I now receive a regular edition of its magazine, Piers, which lets me know what is happening round our coasts. And this week, we are marking something very special: the 200th anniversary of what the experts have pronounced to be Britain’s first pier, at Ryde in the Isle of Wight.


Our piers came about because we are an island nation, surrounded by surging and not always easy tides. It was all very well if you had a quay: the Pilgrim Fathers never got their feet wet, as a plaque in Plymouth harbour bears witness. But in many places, getting on board involved wading or being carried – ladies with skirts hitched up – into a small boat, then being ferried out to a larger one.


Piers were the answer, loading and offloading passengers as the tide rose and fell. Queen Elizabeth I gifted to Cromer the right to export grain from its pier – which is still there,http://www.mapsxm.com/search/node/cheapjordanshoesfreeshipping.com/bolg, although struggling to sustain its Grade I listed status.


What I love about these idiosyncratic structures is that they are so peculiarly British – centuries old, constantly under threat from time and the elements, yet sustained by the money, effort and love of those who value them.


In my time as a patron, I have been as cheered by people’s enthusiasm for this most Victorian of seaside pleasures as I have been saddened when things go wrong,cheap real jordans, and rescue efforts fail. Storms have long been the great enemy, and this spring’s devastation hit many piers badly: the cost of repair is great, and increasingly has to be set against other spending priorities facing private owners and councils alike. If I could, I would marshal my friends, dress them all in wetsuits and rush out to prop up every one of the casualties – but alas, some are simply too damaged to find rescuers able to make the effort. That is partly why their number has shrunk from around 100 to nearer 50.


My passion for piers was born in a resort that has three. Blackpool’s North, Central and South piers each have a different character and clientele – or at least they did in the Forties, when I was toddling around in frilly knickerbockers wielding my bucket and spade.


At the time, my pleasure was tinged with a flutter of fear, because I wasn’t sure my chubby toes wouldn’t slip through the gaps between the wooden planking and pull me through into the morass of seaweed, rusted struts and groaning tidal surges that characterised their underbelly. I survived – but knew that whenever I took the breezy path to the pier’s end, I would always feel a childhood frisson.


Later in life, I set out to write an adventure story for young teenagers. It was to be set in a derelict pier where a homeless family had found illegal refuge, and become embroiled in a plot to stop a gang of crooked metal dealers buying the ruin and selling it off. The criminals decided to spook the family by faking a series of hauntings and accidents. But my heroes – courageous to the last – recruited a local fish-and-chip shop owner, and together they rounded up the crooks, who had also been dealing illicit drugs off the end of the pier in the middle of the night.


In writing this, I had half an eye on the filmic possibilities. For I have long wondered why more is not made of the huge variety piers offer to film-makers – their glorious uppers, their sinister unders. Cromer, admittedly, has long been a favourite, used in their day by Russ Abbot, Alma Cogan and lately Alan Partridge.


Since my ascension to the elevated status of patron, I have celebrated a family birthday at the end of Weston-super-Mare pier: some 10 of us had a jolly tea, plus visits to sideshow booths. Capping it all was the stroll in the sunshine up and down this splendid structure.


Ryde’s 200th birthday has been an altogether different affair – this is a working pier, where the ferries dock from Portsmouth, and you can see the hovercraft from Southsea land just a short distance away. The weekend before last was given over to National Piers Society festivities, including a gala dinner featuring a turn from my fellow patron, Gyles Brandreth, and the publication by English Heritage of a new nationwide guide to our piers. This coming weekend – marking the actual anniversary of Ryde’s opening in 1814 – will promise even more.




I said above that it is a struggle to sustain our piers, and often a losing one. Yet all is not lost. Teignmouth, damaged in the storm that swept away the Exeter to Plymouth railway, is due to reopen this month. Southwold, Clevedon, Llandudno – these and many others offer pure pleasure on a sunny afternoon, inviting everyone to stroll the hours away. Where else offers the visitor so much delight, at such little cost?