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As we left the restaurant I could see an abundance of flies swarming in the street lamps,addidas sandles, crossing the river after the dam and then winding up through the terraces and forest on the far side of the hill ? a hike of about an hour and a half.m. we walked through rush hour to Sealdah station En-route Ali?s flip-flop broke and I earned admiring (pitying) looks as I sat on the kerb and performed remedial surgery with weighty needle and dental floss The only other westerner amidst the orderly chaos at Sealdah was Roberto a Brazilian who was also Nepal bound A smooth overnight journey subsequent bus to the border town of Panitanki (our packs emerged covered in a fishy emulsion? why any leakage in bus holds always involves fish products beats me) and a rapid passage through the Indian checkpoint saw us march into the deserted Nepalese immigration post at Kakarbhitta Formalities were straight forward and 30-day-visas acquired for $40 pp ($30 if you?re Brazilian? at least we?re not penalized as much as the Americans) Actually here?s something that tickled us? Europeans do not need visas for any South American country which saves a whole whack of money when travelling Annapurna I at dawnthere However according to Roberto Citizens of the USA have to buy single entry visas to every country (at around $100 a pop) which would make you seriously think twice about admiring Iguazu falls from Argentina in the morning and from Brazil in the afternoon This is of course a reciprocal arrangement but one in which the South American wins big time Yes all South Americans must obtain a visa to the States but they (at least the Brazilians) get 15 year multi-entry jobs (longer than their passport longevities ? just carry your expired one as well) It only makes me smile as US immigration is such a pain; as one-time ex-pats there we know all about that Anyway I digress? Passports (with visas) in hand the official then requested another 100 Indian rupees from each of us I inquired what this might be for and was told 1% Hmmmm 1% of the visa price would be around 20rps and regardless what precisely would this be for The man gave a knowing smile to which I said ?I think not? and we walked out into India?s supposedly less corrupt neighbour Nepal Getting to Kathmandu required a 17 hr bus Kathmandu childjourney for which we had to wait 5 or 6 hours in the rather pleasant as far as border towns go Kakarbhitta There are no two ways about it Nepal is just that bit more laid back than India; it?s more genteel; it has a safe secure vibe and this was ? no doubt ? my undoing I let my guard down Ali and I had seats directly behind the door of the bus and comings and goings were frequent as were loiterers Still I had my day pack strapped to my leg for sleeping purposes and then it and ourselves were covered with a sleeping bag Nevertheless my usual paranoid vigilance was obviously awry as we arrived in Kathmandu sans the camera According to our insurance company it was worthless anyway. One upside to this costly mishap was the location of Kathmandu?s tourist police station (extremely friendly staff although of questionable efficiency: their less-than-reassuring parting words were ?contact us in a month by email in case we?ve forgotten to process your report?) Anyway outside the police compound is a tea shop that is constantly heaving with locals It only serves channa daal rotis curd and tea but the Sunset from Bandipurquality is astounding and the bill miniscule We regularly walked the 4 km round trip from Thamel for the pleasure - the chilled creamy lemony curd alone was worth the trek Kathmandu itself has expanded hugely since our last visit and the major thoroughfares are now choked with traffic and fumes Freak Street near Durbar square (whose architectural grandeur is being renovated in places by German money for which they now demand 750rps to pass through ? say exactly that: you are merely passing through and you?ll avoid payment) is no longer the backpackers? epicenter This has long since moved to the Thamel area a kilometer or so to the north Here the labyrinthine streets are a western-deprived backpackers? wet dream: a gaudy mosaic of restaurants guesthouses bars trekking establishments bakeries masseurs ethnic clothes art and souvenir shops cafes wine shops and more all wedged together and piled atop each other an overlaid rainbow of signs and hoardings vying for attention Roaming eagle-eyed among the crowds are ?Tiger Balm? salesmen who are the men who can do. Kathmandu?s clientele are far more main-stream these days but the smoking scene is even more nonchalant than in years gone by Vendor at Swayanbhunath temple KathmanduOn arrival at the bus station (the new/long distance/on the north of the ring road bus station) we were collared by an amiable old guy who lured us back to his guesthouse (it was actually the one Roberto had targeted anyway) Mountain Peace GH lies in the northwestern corner of Thamel right at the junction of local and tourist: you can eat and drink in traditional Newari tea houses and restaurants (at local prices) or wander a lane or two for breakfasts of chocolate croissants and freshly ground coffee or honey & ginger tea and bacon and eggs at German bakeries (admittedly Pumpernickel was rather fine) and then return later for apple crumble/strudel/pie or chocolate cake or lemon cheesecake or whatever your sweet munchie tooth desires. 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Vendor at Kathmandu templeour lead undone by a round on song lyrics) had seen twelve days melt away We did finally drag ourselves away four hours southwest to the historic town of Bandipur Peacefully perched high on a ridge with ? on a clear day ? magnificent views of distant mountains it is a tranquil haven We both immediately fell in love The main street (the only street) is flag-stoned and pedestrian-only providing eateries with the space and inclination to spill out of their beautiful folding wooden Newari doors onto the narrow plaza Until fairly recently the road was packed mud and motorbikes would whip up a dust storm Then a wise person applied some savvy tradition-respecting development and left the town with a legacy to make locals and tourists alike beam The only complaint could be that it all appears a bit twee but the wonderful old buildings ? some no doubt faithfully restored ? stand and there are minimal concessions to tourism: no souvenir shops or western-only menus (there are some great daal bhaats: Nepalese thalis) Off the non-street are dusty lanes that wind down and across the forested hillsides leading to homesteads even smaller villages and magnificent viewpoints The Lizard on Pokhara hillside (1)town folk and farmers are delightfully welcoming and those not involved with tourism bear us little mind save the universal ?Namaste? greeting and directional aid when required Our second day in residence saw ?Holi? one of Hinduism?s favourite (at least among children) festivals in which the object of the day is to smear pelt or smother all-and-sundry in bindi powder We foolishly chose to move rooms What was wrong with our first Very little; certainly not the price or the view from our dinky balcony However we had found Peepal Chautari Guesthouse that was even better Fortunately our 7 am dash across ?town? preceded the on-set of hostilities During the course of the day (dressed in our most expendable clothing) we were shadowed by Namaras a mischievous but endearing mute boy of 11; a boy who liked to spread the paint but whom all knew not to reciprocate with By 10 am most including Ali and I resembled 1970?s British tourists to Spain Over the next few days as we?d loiter - post-walk - over a beer Namaras would flit between us playing on his own with his homemade spinning top and treasured torches and Lad at small village on trailfailing to ingratiate himself with local or tourist children alike One (obviously bilingual) French boy complained to us that Namaras didn?t understand English In fact his understanding of English is excellent and communication quite possible by explaining yourself and giving him something he can create a definite signal to Why he doesn?t/can?t speak is apparently a mystery to the whole town It was never quite made clear whether he was a deserted rough-living child or whether he merely chose to spend much of his time the not inconsiderable distance from where his mother might live Regardless he is one self-sufficient little boy who would rarely accept anything from you but whom the locals could regularly be seen checking up on as to whether he had eaten One evening we said our goodnights to him and mentioned in passing that we?d be up for dawn the next day to view sunrise from a particular viewpoint At 5 am,plain black football boots,often criss-crossing the country as each trip had varied wish-lists. 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