Tunedthings

[sartaleScoda]

The John Lobb brand is one of the leading manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory remains committed to the methods developed in the 19th century.

Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.

Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.

Similar to Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from young French calf hides. Only slightly more than half of the leather is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.

The line combines heritage designs with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen double monks gained elongated straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in different shades and textures.

Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb continues to be one of the pillars in world-class shoemaking.

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