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” I ask as I crawl out of my tent.I have a hazy memory of high-pitched barks tweets and snarls cutting through the black-blind night Greg Sho our Mayan guide pauses mid-chop “Kinkajou” he says lifting his eyes to the strangler fig branches high above our jungle clearing where the furry marble-eyed mammals forage for fruit and nectar at night “I think he didn’t like us camping in his yard” Kinkajou wasn’t the only perturbed local Sho points out a fresh jaguar paw print at the edge of camp “They see us” he says of the elusive cats “We don’t see them” Our second morning is a typical one in the Maya Mountains of Belize: Rise to a chorus of songbirds sneak a quick morning splash in the river—mind the lurking Morelet’s crocodile—and brace for adventures a 19th-century explorer might find familiar
Most visitors arrive in Belize seeking rum drinks and sandy beaches Some venture inland to the ecotourism lodges but few pull on their backcountrybritches and hike into the jungly hills of the Maya massif a rugged densely forested 2000-foot-high spine that runs 70 miles up the southern half of the country? feeling like we’ve entered the jungles of our childhood dreams. Ryan Alonzo,
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