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More screams; more laughter. Bon,
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stare at the lava some more, who seemed thrilled that we had wanted to be part of the Filipino celebration. meaning that we were provided with a room. When he heard we were from Ireland he asked us to say something in Irish. I wandered around. As we sail on the skies get even clearer. “What the hell happened!” I ask Apparently she tried to come find me on the other side of the rocks but tried to walk around the rocks instead of over them and got into water a bit too deep for her boots Her feet and boots are soaked through Whoops Dinner is delayed a bit as we got to the mainland a bit later than anticipated At around 8:00 the sun comes shining through the windows of the restaurant Tonight may be the shortest night we have on the whole cruise We are pretty far south now about 63 degrees only 3 degrees of longitude (about 200 miles) from the Antarctic Circle So image somewhere near Denali National Park in Alaska for a comparison Plus it’s only 8 days after the summer solstice The moral of the story is that it’s not going SAM_7478to get dark tonight The sun will set but the skies will never go dark as a twilight will last for about an hour or two at the wee hours of the morning I am in the bar till about 11:30 and before going to the room I go out on deck The skies are a mix of blue and red/yellow from the sunset It’s still daylight Day 15: Today we wake up in the South Shetland Islands These are some Antarctic Islands just off the coast of the peninsula The cruise has chosen to go here instead of heading further down the peninsula because apparently landings are difficult on the peninsula and from where we were yesterday there is nowhere accessible to land for nearly 200 miles down the coast That and they consider these islands more beautiful and better for wildlife Once again we are in Antarctica but we are not really on the continent Whatever the case I pop outside for a view and it is nothing short of amazing We are at a place called Half Moon Bay and there is land all around us just one little inlet allowing the ship to pass SAM_7486It seems like even more of a half moon Rugged mountains and ice dot the landscape We even have more sunlight this morning Our luck with the weather down here has really been amazing We decide to finally have breakfast today and afterwards we prepare to go ashore There is a colony of chinstrap penguins here the only ones we have not seen in numbers yet Contrary to most landings we are on the very last zodiac to hit the water this morning thanks to the sunglasses fiasco (that’s a whole other story) But we still will have plenty of time to walk around and explore Some chinstraps greet us as we land on a black pebbled beach There is a snow covered hill right behind the beach and we head up there for a view of the mountains beyond It’s a gorgeous view across another body of water to jagged black and white mountain peaks The chinstrap penguins in the foreground provide scale and contrast for our pictures Instead of heading to the penguin colony today we first decide to wander the other way to get some good views and check out some random Weddle seals There SAM_7512is a little path carved into the snow for people to walk on If you go off path you may end up stepping down through two feet of snow It’s impossible to tell how deep the snow is (again it’s very hard icy snow) so with each step you just hope it’s compact enough to hold your weight Down by the shore again we can see icy mountains just in front of us on the next island over Many peaks are visible but there must be some hidden under the ice While I’m standing watching the seals I notice a large piece of driftwood to my left But wait a minute this is Antarctica there are no trees here Where the hell did a piece of driftwood come from Then I realize it’s not a log at all; it’s a whale bone It looks like a log even so much that it has what seems to be bark peeling off of it Apparently this is just how the bones decay I am standing on a huge jaw bone from a whale species unknown It’s hard to fathom just how big these creatures are Back up the hill we head SAM_7519for the penguin colony By now it is starting to get hot The sun is blaring down reflecting off the snow and there is no wind at all It’s like a nice summer day in Wellington I have already shed my big coat and with just a T-shirt and a long-sleeve polyester shirt I am starting to sweat I decide to take the polyester shirt off and now I am just wearing a T-shirt in Antarctica And it feels damn good We ditch out backpack and jackets and decide to head to the penguin colony with nothing weighing us down The chinstrap penguins apparently like rocks The landscape here is composed of medium-sized boulders that come together to form dramatic rock sculptures And the penguins are all over this place sitting on eggs or nesting baby chicks They hoot and holler as all penguins do but don’t seem too bothered by us We climb up a little rocky hill and get a good view of the sea and the ship But all of a sudden the weather starts to turn The sun is now completely blocked by clouds and the wind has started to blow So much for my SAM_7541T-shirt idea It’s still not too bad but a jacket would be nice right about now to protect me from the wind Luckily for me our time is nearly up and we have to head back to the landing spot But not before we spot the lone macaroni penguin Why this guy is here in the middle of a giant chinstrap colony nobody knows We theorize that he got lost as a child and was raised by chinstraps So maybe he is accepted as one of the chinstraps His spikey yellow hair sure sets him apart in the crowd though The jacket that made me so hot earlier feels good as my arms are finally protected from the wind which has picked up considerably We take the last zodiac back to the ship in time for a little rest before lunch This afternoon the plan is to land on Deception Island This is a small volcanic caldera that formed a ring-shaped island with an eruption a few hundred years ago (or something like that) It has been used as a whaling station a scientific research center and an airport but it currently used as nothing but a tourist attraction SAM_7544With nearly 20000 visitors a year this is the most visited of all the places in Antarctica It is not known for its penguins but rather for its volcanic landscape and geothermal activity Here the water can either be freezing cold (normal) or hot from the geothermal forces It’s just a matter of what’s happening when you visit Here we are given the chance to go for the Polar Plunge not knowing beforehand just how cold or hot it is going to be We figure we may never get this chance again so let’s go for it The ship sails into the caldera just before 4:00 and we are in the zodiacs by 4:20 It’s a strikingly different landscape from this morning There are no jagged peaks just gradual mountains slightly covered in ice clearly due to the volcanic activity As we approach the shore we smell the sulfur The beach is smoking – it reminds me of Yellowstone or Rotorua There are no boiling lakes but the water flowing into the sea is incredibly hot Even the first little bit of sea water on the beach is hot Just after that though the water becomes nearly freezing again SAM_7198The guides tell us that the water is most likely around 2 degrees Celsius Going in this water is gonna be damn cold That is for later though For now it’s off to a little crack in the mountains called Neptune’s Saddle We pass a few chinstrap penguins on the beach as we walk along I wasn’t expecting to see any penguins here due to the volcanic activity not exactly the best place for raising chicks There are no breeding pairs here but some stragglers have found their way here and are chilling on the beach They don’t look concerned by the fact that the ground below them is nearly boiling hot This beach is a bit different than most beaches we have been on so far This one actually has sand It’s black volcanic sand as you would expect but sand nonetheless We spot a few Weddle seals chilling on a snow patch on our way up to the ridge It’s a little hike but we are rewarded with great views when we get there From here we can see the mainland The peninsula is in the distance We have been told that you can see it SAM_7305from here on clear days Most people however do not get to see it since it’s usually so cloudy We really have been lucky with the weather We can see icy mountains across the water We will head that way tomorrow but for now we just enjoy the view Right below us is a little cove that has a little black sand beach It looks like some sort of secluded private beach If only the water wasn’t so damn cold Back at the landing spot it’s time for the Polar Plunge A young English couple is the first in It looks damn cold A few more take the plunge and then it’s our turn Stripped down to my shorts it’s really not cold at all I feel remarkably content This is mainly because there is no wind and the sun is shining – a rare occurrence in Antarctica Either way this feels pretty damn good Nimarta and I grab hands and go running into the water After the first step the freezing sensation is hard to ignore I have never felt anything like this before I have taken ice baths for injuries but this is something else I get SAM_7332down to my neck in the water and the chilling sensation has already set in I can only handle a few seconds before running back to the shore and sitting in the hot geothermal water at the ocean’s edge Good god that was cold I cannot imagine falling off a boat into the ocean here I have never felt anything so cold in my life It is exhilarating though Nimarta enjoys it so much she goes in two more times and the fourth time makes me go in again to get better pictures It’s even colder the second time It was fun to do but never again We wave goodbye to Deception Island knowing that we only have one more chance to set foot on Antarctica tomorrow The trip is coming to an end and it’s beginning to get a bit sad As glad as I will be to finally get off this boat and out of this little cabin I still want the cruise to be longer to see more things We have seen and experienced so much in the last two weeks but this place leaves you wanting more The sun doesn’t really set tonight The ship SAM_7444stops for a while around 10:00 because there are some whales nearby We see whales every day but this is the closest one has been to the ship maybe 30 meters off the starboard side There are a few other swimming about and everyone runs outside to take pictures The water is so still that you can almost see the whale through the water There is no wind whatsoever a rare thing in this part of the world The sun is obscured by clouds but it is still incredibly light out I haven’t seen anything like this since a few summers ago in Alaska I like it Day 16: New Year’s Eve gets off to a good start It is very sunny and the blue skies mean excellent visibility We are at Trinity Island just off the peninsula This is the farthest south we will go and therefore the furthest south I have ever been Like I said it’s very sunny but we finally get a sense of Antarctic weather with the wind It is quite cold this morning and the wind is whipping It’s not too strong so we are able to load the zodiacs with no SAM_7509problems They can only take half of us ashore here at a time so we will only get an hour or so on land Apparently there is not much space to walk around so this shouldn’t be too much of a problem We are on the first zodiac again and we set foot on Antarctica for the last time There are hundreds of gentoo penguins here along with an old red building with an Argentine flag painted on it and some ruins of old oil barrels Some of the penguins have made their nests around the old barrels It’s sort of disturbing The area we are at is covered in penguin poop It stains the snow red As mentioned before gentoos live in small gatherings instead of one big colony As this island is covered in a thick layer of hard snow they have created paths between their “villages” I deem them “Gentoo Highways” The paths are like little trenches in the snow where the snow has been compacted and stained red with poo As I look around the penguins are constantly travelling down the highways There are also two Weddle seals hanging out by the shore These SAM_7378Weddle seals don’t seem to do anything though The fur and elephant seals on South Georgia were much more interesting The wind is really starting to pick up now This is more like what Antarctica is supposed to feel like Not T-shirt weather I have two layers of gloves on and my fingers are still cold I can’t imagine how cold it would feel without the sun which shines down on us and reflects off the snow We have been so lucky with the weather on this trip The guides say they have never had a trip like this before It’s nice to feel some real Antarctic weather for a change I suppose Before we know it our hour on the island is over They were planning on taking us on a zodiac cruise but now that the wind has picked up that has been cancelled and they need to get us back to the ship so the other group can have their landing And just like that we say goodbye to Antarctica The next time we will set foot on land will be back in Ushuaia We didn’t spend too long on the frozen continent but it was SAM_7536enough to fall in love with the place and experience it in all its majesty It is truly a unique place Back on the ship we watch as we meander through icebergs and islands on our way out to the Drake Passage which will take us back to Argentina This is the last chance we will have to view Antarctica from the ship so we spend some time outside saying our final goodbyes This may be the last time we ever see Antarctica If not it will be quite a long time before we return And who knows it may not look the same in the future After lunch we decide a long nap is needed It’s New Year’s Eve and if we are gonna make it to midnight we will need some more sleep Before we lay down I place a liter of Beagle Red (craft beer from Ushuaia) outside to chill Three hours later I go outside to find a nice cold bottle of beer Who needs refrigerators when you are in Antarctica? another boat and then on foot to an isolated home and met the owner Trapper Rick who had trapped animals in the area for years and spent the day with him whilst he told us stories of his encounters with wildlife. Later in the heat of the day they ‘poled’ us out to chill and swim in a hippo pool that had only just been vacated by its rightful owners - this was so unforgettable. It is a really cold night.
I decided to do the same thing. Scattered around everything was lush tropical vegetation. dalej praktykuj,
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