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Jim Billy and I started up the Nose on El Capitan to attempt the first one-day ascent Wed each done the route once before Bridwell had worked up the logistics on graph paper I led the first 17 pitches mostly free-climbing up the cracks piercing the South Buttress I got us on top of the 60-foot-high Boot Flake by 7:15 that morning We were smoking Billy took the lead racing across funky diorite over to the Great Roof a sweeping arch of beige granite then bashed his way up the vertical corners to Camp Six a small triangular ledge only 600 feet below the summit Jim grabbed the lead and hammered skyward as the meadow below filled with friends and onlookers honking horns and spurring us upward The pitches whirred by so fast that I could barely clip off the belay anchors before having to chase after the leader on mechanical ascenders fastened on the rope We crested the summit at 7:25 that evening some 15 hours after we started We raced down the East Ledges descent route and just after dark stumbled onto the Loop Road We hoofed around to Jims van and a moonlit El Cap hovered into view towering like a dream half-remembered We didnt feel like conquerors but honored guests at a shrine I went on to have many adventures and have forgotten half of them but never the brotherhood and awe I experienced climbing El Cap in a day with Jim and Billy Nose in a Day or NIAD has since been accomplished hundreds of times by teams from around the world By no means was ours the first speed climb of a Yosemite big wall but NIAD shattered a last psychological barrier After that the prevailing thought became that if you could dream it you could do itan orientation that has raised the Yosemite bar to heights unimaginable in 1975 John Long 1975: First Free Ascent of Astroman Photo: Bartfett/iStock From the broken boulders at its base the East Face of Washington Column facing Half Dome rises as a gorgeous hunk of orange-streaked god stone split by one of the finest crack systems a climber will ever see Legendary hardmen Warren Harding Glen Denny and Chuck Pratt claimed the first ascent in 1959 back when it was called simply the East Face of Washington Column The challenges they faced ran the gamut: fissures varying from fingernail width to bombay chimneys split the 1200-foot wall making it a test piece for the aid climbers of the 1960s Then in 1975 the route became something else entirely The free-climbing revolutiona shift in emphasis from completing climbs by any means necessary to more refined methodswas taking root in Yosemite Valley No one exemplified the new guard more than John Bachar John Long and Ron Kauk Everything they did was swashbucklingly cool and became iconicincluding the paisley headbands and white painters pants they wore while climbing In May of that year the three men set out to use the techniques theyd been developing on the smaller cragslike hand jamming and fingertip face climbingand apply them to a much bigger canvas By using their cutting edge skills to free-climb the steep East Face they completely changed the way the climbing world looked at big cliffs People had done 100-foot climbs with that level of difficulty but stacking that level of difficulty on a long multipitchwith that much air below their heelswas unheard of It instantly became the most famous free climb in the world They named it Astroman Peter Croft 1978: Ron Kauk Climbs Midnight Lightning Columbia Boulder is a 30-foot-high granite rock rising from the center of Yosemite Valleys Camp 4 the most storied climbers campground on earth Since the 1940s when climbers started regularly visiting the Valley the young and restless have hurled themselves at the big gray hulk though the top was rarely achieved Sometime in the mid-1970s John Yablonskitripping on LSD as the legend goesspotted a line of tenuous holds sweeping up the rocks bulging east face and hallucinated a route that would later become the worlds most famous bouldering problem Joined by Valley stalwarts Ron Kauk and John Bachar Yablonski began serious efforts on the problem in the summer of 1978 During one session Bachar chalked the image of a lightning bolt on the rock face by the route Midnight Lightning as the problem was immediately coined derived from a posthumous album by rock guitarist Jimi Hendrix and a lightning boltshaped hold in the middle of the overhanging crux section The lightning bolt is still there rechalked by other climbers over the years Nearly 40 years after Kauks iconic first ascent on most any summer afternoon crash pads are stacked like cordwood below Midnight Lightning and climbers from Switzerland to Shanghai are hurling themselves at Columbia Boulder And just as it was in the earlier days when climbers clawed at the easier south and west faces the top is rarely achieved John Long 1980s & 1990s: New Heights and Broken Records 1981: First Ascent of Bachar-Yerian In the summer of 1981 John Bachar followed by his partner Dave Yerian launched up the crackless ocean of gold granite on the right side of Medlicott Dome in Yosemites Tuolumne high country By the time Bachar stood atop the 500-foot face hed done more than establish a hard climb He had created a monument to boldness "Watching John climb was like listening to Coltrane" Yerian said in a 2012 issue of Rock and Ice "Bachar was so far ahead of his time that no one could understand what he was doing" The climbing was tricky and dangerous Bachar climbed on sight from the ground up occasionally drilling bolts and slinging wee knobs for protection He placed a scant eight protection bolts in four pitches a handful of which he sunk while hanging from a hook Bachars tactics compromised the "stance only" drilling ethic of the era in which bolts were placed only where one could stand on the rock face But the route was steeper than anything to date and Bachar felt that by bending the rulesa recurring theme in climbing historyhe could push the sport into a new realm A few months before his death in 2009 Bachar wrote in Alpinist "The farther apart the bolts were the more of an artistic statement I could make about the value of skill over technology" Today the Bachar-Yerian is graded 511c R/X Many argue that its harder Regardless the grade does not speak much to its true nature Its a righteous scarefest Supertopos Tuolumne Free Climb guidebook calls it the "most famous psychological testpiece in the US" Though the technical crux on pitch one is well protected the second turns back the biggest number of would-be suitors This includes the likes of Wolfgang Gullich who broke a quartz crystal and sailed 60 feet while attempting the second ascent Bachar recalled in Alpinist "Over and over Id felt my whole life come down to one small move one crystaland within those tiny spaces and moments Id tried to get a measure of myself" Pete Takeda 1986: Bachar and Croft Climb Half Dome and El Cap in a Day Bachar and Croft climb Half Dome and El Cap in a day Photo: Phil Bard Thirty years ago I drove down to Yosemite Valley with a secret plan to climb the two biggest landmarks in YosemiteEl Capitan and Half Domein one day A smirking buddy pointed out that my résumé didnt include either one of these giants in a day He was right But for the previous two or three years Id been linking big cliffs alone and the prospect as farfetched as it sounded felt like an achievable dream Dream turned to destiny when stepping out of my car I was greeted by none other than John Bachar the most famous climber in the world Without a word from me he suggested we attempt the very same linkup I had in mind I could practically hear the gears of the cosmos clicking into place as the planets aligned John and I spent the next few days climbing together to get a feel for each other and then we took a two-day break to prepare At the stroke of midnight we turned on our headlamps and grabbed the first handholds on El Cap Sneaking past climbers sleeping on ledges on the wall and higher up passing others who immediately deferred to royalty (John) we pulled onto the summit around 10 am We paused to enjoy the moment Feeling stronger on the summit than wed felt at the bottom we couldnt wait to get up on Half Dome By early afternoon we were climbing Half Domes northwest face blue-black thunderheads rolling in from the east Normally threatening weather might be reason for retreat but it merely added voltage to our energy When the first raindrops fell and the static electricity caused our hair to stand up we just accelerated It was like the forces of evil were now being used for the forces of good When we stood on top we looked up at a perfect double rainbow As we hiked off the top of Half Dome I remember wondering to myself "Whats next" It didnt feel like the end It felt like the beginning Peter Croft 1988: Paul Piana and Todd Skinner Free the Salathé Paul Piana (left) and Todd Skinner Photo: Bill Hatcher When Todd Skinner and Paul Piana free-climbed El Caps Salathé Wall in 1988 they redefined what was possible on Yosemites biggest walls Royal Robbins who did the first ascent as a cutting-edge aid climb in 1961 called the 35-pitch route "the greatest rock climb in the world" Before Skinner and Pianas free ascent no one had climbed such mind-boggling difficulty in such an outrageous position Seven pitches were rated 511 four were 512 and four were 513unthinkable for the era In preparation the pair spent 30 days over two months fixing hundreds of feet of rope hauling humongous loads and finally rappelling in from the top of El Cap to work the moves The renegade tactics broke the "rules" raising the hackles of the Valley rank and file breeding skepticism outright slander and character assassination Some pundits doubted their free ascent even after the climb was repeated and confirmed at the grade The free Salathé was every bit a triumph of ascent as rising above the morass The pair spent nine days on their final push enduring long falls hunger storm and mangled hands On the summit a huge granite blocktheir primary anchorcut loose severing ropes breaking Skinners ribs and crushing Pianas foot By chance Piana had backed up the anchor to some old pitons saving them from a 3000-foot plunge to the Valley floor What was controversial proved an evolutionary stepping-stone and finally the norm Lynn Hill wrote in Climbing in 2006 that the Salathé "marked the beginning of the current trend of free climbing on the big walls of Yosemite" In 2006 on NPRs Weekend Edition Piana recalled "It was something that the climbing world hadnt considered as possible . 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