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Even though the entrance to the site was overwhelming with vendors and parking attendants yelling at buses etc. there was a real sense of tranquility once we entered the grounds We met our local guide Francisco who showed us a topography map of the whole site and the restored areas we would be covering The Palenque ruins are situated on a hilltop in an area of hot jungle and home to more than hundred Maya ruins There are many ruins still un-excavated and hidden in the surrounding forest of cedar mahogany and sapodilla trees The temples that have been excavated are superb relics of Maya culture and the pyramids rise up above the wild forest that has consumed the majority of the ruins I found the architecture and bas-relief carvings quite beautiful I love seeing ruins in their natural state and I really don’t like over-restoration especially when the restoration is based on guess work I much prefer to see things as they were This may sound sacrilegious to some but I found these ruins to be more inspiring palenque forestthan Chichen Itza The much smaller crowds also helped a great deal The central temple complex is the Temple of Inscriptions Group which stunningly sit in a row as you walk into the site The main temple – the Temple of Inscriptions was also the Mausoleum of King Pakal with the Temple of the Red Queen right next door to it The Temple of the Skull sits at the end less restored but still quite majestic Then there was the maze that was El Palacio (The Palace) with its iconic tower We climbed the stone steps to the top of the palace from which we had a good view of the Temple of Inscriptions King Pakal was thought to have been the driving force behind this city which was then taken over by his son The palace complex demonstrated how advanced the building and engineering skills had been at the time Francisco was a good guide but he was very intense in his explanations When he mentioned that a piece of art with King Pakal had been interpreted variously as his ascent to heaven or him driving a space ship… we all laughed but he looked confused They palenque ruinssay that humour is the last bastion of successful cross-cultural interaction… and when I light heartedly asked if there were any theories that aliens built the complex I was met with a forced laugh and a look of something akin to pity 😊 On a hill behind us was the Temples of the Crosses Group which all faced into a courtyard The Temple of the Cross Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Foliated Cross were a set of quite elegant temples built on platforms They were elaborately carved and had interior chambers that depicted rituals and allegiances to Maya gods We climbed the giant stone steps of the Temple of the Cross and had the most gorgeous view of the rambling ruins and surrounding forest There were a few hawkers in a designated area between the Temple of Inscriptions and the Temples of the Crosses Group but they weren’t in our faces and for the most part only approached us if we walked up to the stalls and had a look Andrew asked Francisco about our Maya astrological signs and according to a reference sheet that Francisco had Andrew’s sign was Moan the master of the palenque ruinsuniverse There were a few children selling stone pendants of the Maya signs and Francisco called them over They got really shy and giggly when I asked to take their photo After exploring the main excavated temples we engaged Francisco for a few more hours to take us on a jungle walk We exited the manicured lawns near the temple of the skulls and crossed over a ‘no pasar’ (No Entry) rope and entered the jungle We went on the jungle walk to see the predominately pre-Pakal buildings which were still buried beneath the jungle growth I suddenly realised that essentially any hill I saw was actually jungle growth over a temple It was pretty fascinating to see how these temples looked pre-restoration We climbed a small hill and Francisco casually mentioned that we were climbing a pyramid We could see small windows and other collapsed structures as we walked around The canopy in the jungle made walking quite pleasant The thick growth of vines and tall trees with buttressed roots made the walk very interesting However Andrew’s ill timed (or well timed) question about venomous snakes (which was answered in the affirmative) made us slightly on edge palenque museumabout any movement in the undergrowth As glad as we were about not seeing any vipers sadly we didn’t see any animals apart from a startled agouti and a couple of wild turkeys We also walked to a newly discovered Maya bathing pool that was fed by a spring and drained into an aqueduct The aqueduct had been built to divert water from a river through the city and it still ran as it had been built to Their engineering skills were so advanced We thought Francisco was joking when he asked if we wanted to walk through the 20 or so metres of aqueduct given the opening was only just wide enough to crawl into,
nike brown leather high tops. but in we all went We only had three torches between the nine of us so had to ration and space out the lights The first bit was OK but then it got darker narrower and the water got deeper Andrew’s head was nearly touching the top of the aqueduct At one point we startled a small group of bats huddled together and one flew at us which isn’t a great situation in a confined space but thankfully it didn’t fly directly at palenque museumany of our faces Despite the poor frightened little bat walking through the aqueduct was a big highlight for me Another highlight of the jungle walk was when Andrew who was walking in front of me hid behind a large tree and meant to jump out at me but jumped out at a very startled Logan instead It was hilarious but Logan promised revenge so it’s going to be interesting to see how that pans out 😊 We left the jungle said goodbye to Francisco and re-entered the ruins to walk through them one more time It was close to 1pm and the day had heated up considerably but the ruins were still relatively empty We took a few more photos and walked past a few more plazas and numbered (but unnamed) temples on the way to the Palenque museum Since Chichen Itza I’d been trying to practice a silly panorama with Andrew where I run around him a few times and try to appear multiple times in the panorama While walking back through the Palenque ruins we attempted to do it with the whole group… it sort of worked but we need to keep practicing 😊 streets of palenque The museum was air conditioned which was welcome after all the hot walking The main piece in the museum was a copy of the lid of the sarcophagus of King Tikal which was much larger than I thought it would be It’s interesting that after visiting three other Maya ruins I’m starting to recognise symbols and see a pattern in their designs In terms of my favourite ruins rating – Palenque is now in front followed closely by Guatemala’s Tikal and then Mexico’s Chichen Itza and Tulum On the way back to the hotel our driver recommended a spot that we could stop for lunch and given we were starving we agreed We regretted our decision when he pulled up outside a place that looked like a truck stop called Burger Express Thankfully the food was excellent Beer and agua de horchata (rice nuts and cinnamon drink) worked a treat to cool us down and our ham and bean soup and shared plate of tacos de fajitas de pollo con queso (chicken beans and cheese tacos) was fantastic We returned to the hotel in desperate need of a shower and a little lie down (well I lay streets of palenquedown while Andrew went to pick up our laundry) After the sun had lost its sting we walked around the town and explored the more suburban areas away from the very green and clean hotel area and the main street that leads to the plaza and the church There was very noticeable poverty here but also a lot of community activity and lively streets It was a Saturday and when we visited the church there was some sort of group activity going on in the shade of the trees There also seemed to be club soccer and Girl Guide uniforms all over town For dinner we checked out a restaurant from the Lonely Planet Guide called Café de Yara There were only two tables of people in the whole place and the waiter was clearly anxious to please He was the most attentive waiter we’ve ever had No sooner had I taken my last bite of something than the plate would be whisked away from under me It got to a point that I tried to sit at an angle so he couldn’t see my plate to buy us some time to enjoy the food We shared a torta streets of palenqueMexicana (ham manchego cheese beans tomato and avocado) and a tostados de pollo (fried tortilla with chicken and sprinkled cheese) – they were both from the entrée menu and we could hardly finish them As we sat at dinner we were again made aware of how many police and army patrols there were around town I mentioned the searching of our bus on the journey into Palenque and the increased security in the area There were a few safety concerns because of increased activity by the Zapatista Movement in the region so some changes to our itinerary were necessary The Zapatistas (or people claiming to be Zapatistas) have started targeting tourists in order to draw attention to their cause As a result some transport to and from Palenque was rerouted which meant longer travel times of up to 8-9 hours instead of a four hour trip Here’s some background on the Zapatistas – the Zapatista National Liberation Army is based in Chiapas They initially formed to protest economic policies (as part of Mexico’s integration into the North American Free Trade Agreement with the US and Canada) in 1993/94 that they believed negatively impacted Mexico’s indigenous population At the tostados de polloheart of the issue was a land reform bill that sought to privatise the country’s ejidos (communal farms) The Zapatistas argued that the free-trade agreement and land reform would lead to further impoverishment of the indigenous Mexicans The group has now established itself as an influential political movement that advocates for Mexico’s disenfranchised indigenous communities The safety of the roads were constantly under review and there didn’t seem to be any safety issues within the city of Palenque itself (apart from the frequent security patrols) or at the nearby Palenque archaeological site we’d visited We walked back to the hotel stopping on the way to stock up on more snacks for our travel day ahead I had enjoyed the Palenque ruins and being in a very different region in Mexico than we had experienced in Quintana Roo or Yucatan Next we travel southwest to San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas Mexico Previous Entry Next Entry Advertisement After my experience with the regular taxi the previous night I decided to get a more expensive radio taxi from the airport to the bus station on the grounds that it would probaby work out cheaper,
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